Life: November 23, 1927 - February 27, 2006
Birthday: November 23
Death: February 27
Surfing is an individual expression of one's own worth and one's own ability to participate directly with nature. And what makes it really enjoyable to me is that every wave is different... there's a special, non-repetitive pleasure in it that never gets boring.
topic: Expression, Surfing, Special, Individual Expression